Il passaporto di Anne Lister & Ann Walker

"Giovedì partiremo per Chamouni [Chamonix-Mont-Blanc], di lì per Martigny, poi verso il Gran San Bernardo, e giù ad Aosta per vedere il Piccolo San Bernardo, e ritorneremo via Courmayeur." (We shall be off for Chamouni [Chamonix-Mont-Blanc] on Thursday, from there to Martigny, thence to the Great Saint Bernard, and down to Aosta, see the little Saint Bernard, and return by Courmayeur). Da una lettera di Anne Lister a zia Anne Lister, 1 luglio 1834, trascrizione e traduzione. West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/787.

Sebbene Anne Lister ed Ann Walker riuscirono a raggiungere i confini della penisola solo nell’estate del 1834, sappiamo che fin dai primissimi giorni della loro relazione c’erano state conversazioni incentrate su un possibile viaggio in Italia.

“[I] said she [Ann Walker] had better go with me and be at Rome for Easter  her refusal was weak enough to make me guess her going as possible.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 3 settembre 1832, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/15/0113]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Looking over maps planning journey thro’ Italy and Switzerland and by the Rhine home.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 31 ottobre 1832, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/15/0136]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Then came Francesco Bado, the Italian courier – a Genoese – answered all my questions satisfactory – will do anything go behind the carriage – clean my shoes and boots – do housework – cook if I like – will ride or drive – go to any part of the world, let me have my own way, and never make difficulties – shewed me an excellent written character.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 12 febbraio 1832, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/15/0025]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“My aunt’s being so surprisingly better put going to Paris into my head again.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 31 maggio 1834, traduzione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0040]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Till one writing copies of letters to Hammersley for passport to Mrs. Hawkins for room.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 2 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0040]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. .

Il 3 giugno 1834 Anne Lister raggiunse Ann Walker presso il suo alloggio a Heworth Grange a York, dov’era affidata alle cure del dottor Stephen Belcombe:

“At Heworth Grange at 9 28/.. poor Miss W- [Walker] alarmed at my being so much later than I named (had said from 6 to 8, but lastly to expect me till 8) – dinner and tea.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 3 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0041]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

"Wrote a few lines to ‘Mrs. Hawkins 26 Dover Street London’ to have rooms ready for me on Friday evening at 8 or 9 and wrote to “Messrs. Hammersleys Bankers London” to have Foreign office passport for myself (Mrs. Lister) and Miss Walker pour voyager in France to be signed at the French Embassy and sent Joseph to the post with these 2 letters – feverish and not well – off from Heworth Grange at 3 10/.." – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 4 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0041]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Gave up lodgings [...] left York 330 o’clock   at Tadcaster at 430 [...] Ferrybridge 630 at Doncaster 108.  wished to be taken to Bawtry, Innkeeper persuaded us to go to Barnby moor – arrived 1010 o’clock – stayed all night and till Friday at 3 o’clock – a very comfortable Inn.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 4 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/2].  Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Obliged to get into bed again and rest a long while during dressing as yesterday – still very weak and burnt up with fever – tho’ for my lying in bed all the morning.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 6 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0041]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

Il passaporto in questione è costituito da un foglio unico ampio e lungo, realizzato in carta molto delicata, di cui sono utilizzate entrambe le facciate. Tale documento veniva formalmente rilasciato dal Ministero degli Affari Esteri della nazione d’appartenenza (in questo caso il Regno Unito) a qualsiasi viaggiatore, ma non stupisca che il documento sia in francese, poiché al tempo era ancora lingua franca. Come si vedrà, alla dichiarazione di rilascio, una volta a Parigi seguirono i timbri (o sigilli) delle ambasciate o degli ambasciatori dei paesi che le viaggiatrici intendevano visitare. A questi si aggiunsero poi quelli di frontiera (o di dogana), a convalida del transito per una specifica destinazione.

Come i moderni passaporti – e le copie di altri passaporti dell’epoca rinvenuti in Italia – anche questo documento include una breve ma esaustiva descrizione fisica delle due viaggiatrici: 

Il soggiorno londinese durò circa cinque giorni, durante i quali Anne Lister ed Ann Walker visitarono separatamente l’una dall’altra conoscenti e parenti e approfittando, inoltre, per far compere in gran quantità.

La mattina del 12 giugno 1834 le due donne lasciarono l’appartamento al terzo piano del n. 13 di Albemarle street con direzione Dover. Da lì si sarebbero poi imbarcate per Calais.

"Alighted at the Ship Inn Dover (now Worthington who succeeded Charles Wright about 4 months ago) at 4 ¼." – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 13 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0043]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“On board the Ferret packet, Captain Hamilton (having put off from the shore in a small boat) at 8 ½ – under weigh at 8 ¾ – Miss W- [Walker] and I sat in the carriage –  she not sick at all – I very soon got rid of my breakfast – sick twice afterwards – fine fresh air – a side wind and crowded all sail – cast anchor at 11 ¾ and, leaving Joseph with the carriage that could not be landed before 2, got into a small boat (Miss W- Eugenie and myself) and landed alongside the pier about 12 ½ – some people from 2 other boats had been carried ashore on men’s shoulders.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 14 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0043]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Went to the vessel in a boat sadly tossed by the waves it being nearly low water off from Dover 109.   shut eyes there, and then never opened them till close upon Calais harbour not sick out of Ferret at 2012.  Went with Monsieur Quilliacq Custom House, had to walk all along pier which is very long. and then to the hotel.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 14 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/6]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Obliged to pay 400 francs duty for the carriage – my permit only for 3 years – could not do otherwise – must settle the matter in Paris.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 14 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0043]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Letter (aux soins des Messrs. Hammersleys banquiers à Londres) signed outside H. Vane from Madame de Bourke 1 page very kind enclosing in a French envelope the laisser passer from the bureau des finances for my carriage.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 16 ottobre 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0096].Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Entered in Paris by the barriere de Clichy at 5 20/.. – nothing but au 5me at Meurice’s – the Norcliffes and Miss Beckett still there – drove off the hotel de la Terrace and settled au 2nde there looking sur le jardin, at 20/. per day at 6.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 17 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0043 & SH:7/ML/E/17/0044]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

Lettera di Anne Lister a zia Anne Lister, 1 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: “Adney (who, by the way, wrote to her aunt and sister both from London and Paris) was charmed with P- [Paris] and all she saw there, but more so for with the mountain passes and plains [...] she is very well, and very happy – I really think she is both.” – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/787.

“Left François with the passport at the prefecture de la police and drove to the Jardin des plantes [...] then came François and I must go to the prefecture – went – difficulty about Eugénie – must send two respectable householders to the commissary police of the quartier I was in to give her a certificate to enable her to get a passport granted by the French authorities as a French subject – home at 11 sent to Amyot the bookseller and he helped me out – great pother – wrote to ‘His Excellency Earl Granville British Embassy’ to ask him to give me another passport for George Joseph Booth [...]  Lord G- sent me back my own passport and one for George – out again at 2 – back to the prefecture to identify Miss W- [Walker] and Eugenie and George and got all the passports done.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 20 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0044]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Went again to Mrs. Heneage and sat with her and her 2 daughters and her son the attaché ½ hour – lucky he was there – explained my passport troubles – that they had said it was unnecessary to sign it at the Sardinian and Austrian Embassy and sent it back – Mr. H- said he would manage all this for me [...] home at 4 – wrote note to ‘Henry Heneage Esquire attaché to the British Embassy’ enclosing my passports and saying Eugenie’s was not yet signed by the Swiss Chargé d’affaires.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 21 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0045]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Very civil note from Mr. Heneage enclosing the passports visaed by the Ambassadors of Sardinia and Austria – says it is not necessary to send my maid’s passport to the Swiss chargé d’affaires – my own Foreign office will do when out of France – determine to be off tomorrow." – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 22 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0045]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

Una settimana esatta dopo il loro arrivo a Parigi, Anne Lister ed Ann Walker lasciarono la capitale per esplorare le Alpi italo-svizzere e italo-francesi:

“Packing travelling bag – breakfast at 8 ¾ – off from the hotel de la Terrasse, Rue de Rivoli at Paris at 10 40/..”. – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 24 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0046]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Up at 6 30 . Breakfasted at 8 20. Off from Hotel de la Terrace (Rue de Rivoli) at 20 11”.  – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 24 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/9]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“The French Swiss boundary is somewhere just out of Ferney [Ferney-Voltaire] – stopt at 5 10/.. at the police at the Great Saconnex [Le Grand-Saconnex], a good village or little town? and shewed my English foreign office passport determined to put the other 2 away – shewed passport again on entering Geneva – left it, and they gave me a ticket to be signed by me before receiving back my passport – all this particularity in consequence of the late affair at Lyons.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 30 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0049]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Off to Geneva, where we arrived about 5 30 – Engaged 4 very comfortable apartments at the Hotel de Berg [Bergues] – which has been built by a company of gentlemen who have bought that quarter of the city and are making great improvements there.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 30 giugno 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/13]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

Lettera di Anne Lister a zia Anne Lister, 1 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: “We are very comfortable, have a very good apartment, and have a beautiful view of the mountains – the river, the handsome bridge, finished six weeks ago, the quai, so improved with large, good, arcaded, stone buildings, that I should not know the place again, are just under our windows – We keep our rooms cool by shutting out the sun and hot external air; yet Fahrenheit stands at 72° now at 2 ½ p.m.” – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/787.

“Had the master of the house up – said he had not so many rooms – 34 chambres de maitre on 4 étages instead of 5 – could not have fixed prices as Meurice’s, because M- had only English and he (M. Rufenacht) must depend upon all – had now 6 French families and only 2 English ourselves and another – only 3 months since he opened the hotel.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 3 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0050]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

 Lettera di Anne Lister a zia Anne Lister, 1 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: “Two of the three letters for Adny [1] were from her sister, suffering from her eyes, but otherwise well, expecting to be confined the beginning of October; but you are not to name this, unless you are sure Miss Cliff-hill knows it – How foolish to be annoyed about not having  heard of the Paris scheme sooner! – You know, that I myself did not know of it till just before I left you. – that Adny knew not a syllable about it till the evening before we were off from York, and that, into the bargain, it was by no means positively fixed till we left London.” – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/787.

“Wrote to my aunt [Miss Walker of Cliff Hill] whom Mrs. Lister [Aunt Anne Lister] said in her letter was very much hurt that she did not know sooner I was coming abroad tho’ it had been talked of by all the world for some months – said to my aunt that I was sorry to hear this, it was out of my power to tell her sooner as I did not know myself and wrote to her, and my sister, as soon as it was fixed, that to them I had never been intentionally uncommunicative, and that it was very unlike me, to tell my plans to all the world but herself (my aunt) [...] to my sister [wrote that] [...] my aunt being hurt at not sooner being apprised of my coming abroad – that I wrote both to her and my aunt as soon as it was fixed.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 1 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/13]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

Lettera di Anne Lister a zia Anne Lister, 1 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: “We shall be off for Chamouni [Chamonix-Mont-Blanc] on Thursday, from there to Martigny, thence to the Great Saint Bernard, and down to Aosta, see the little Saint Bernard, and return by Courmayeur.” – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/787.

“To be off for Chamouni [Chamonix-Mont-Blanc] on Thursday – from there to Martigny, Great Saint Bernard, Aosta, little Saint Bernard and return by Cormayeur [Courmayeur] – all this may take 8 or 10 days.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 1 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0049]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“A- [Adny] and I (took George) out from 7 55/.. to 9 sauntering in the town – very fine day – F70° at 9 50/.. – bought little Chamouni [Chamonix-Mont-Blanc] Guide this evening” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 1 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0049]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

Nel 1834 Carlo Alberto di Savoia-Carignano sedeva sul trono del Regno di Sardegna. Il reame comprendeva, oltre ovviamente all’isola sarda, diverse regioni del Nord-Ovest della penisola (oggi Liguria, Piemonte, Valle d’Aosta, i territori lombardi di Lomellina e Oltrepò Pavese e alcuni della zona piacentina) e parte dell’attuale Francia, tra cui la Contea di Nizza e il Ducato di Savoia. Quest’ultimo, che sin dal X secolo era una contea di proprietà sabauda, nel 1416 fu elevato a ducato con capitale a Chambéry. Dopo l’annessione della contea di Asti nel 1531 e il successivo Editto di Rivoli del 1561 (che fra l’altro riconobbe l’italiano come la lingua ufficiale in ambito amministrativo all’interno del ducato), nel 1563 Torino divenne la nuova capitale, rimanendo tale fino all’unità d’Italia, ad eccezione di alcuni brevi periodo (come quello dell’occupazione francese). Solo il Trattato de L’Aia del 1720 conferì agli stati governati dai Savoia l’attributo di Regno, sul cui trono si insediò Vittorio Amedeo II. In seguito alla caduta di Napoleone, l’editto del 10 novembre 1818 promulgato dal Re di Sardegna deliberò la suddivisione del territorio sabaudo in divisioni (gli ex-dipartimenti francesi), province e comuni. Le prime erano otto e comprendevano: Savoia (di cui Chambéry era il capoluogo), Torino, Cuneo, Alessandria, Novara, Aosta, Genova e Nizza.

Tavola da utilizzare per la composizione della carta topografico-militare delle Alpi in dodici fogli di Raymond, Jean-Baptiste S., Michel, F. P. (17..-18..?).

La mattina del 3 luglio 1834 Anne Lister ed Ann Walker si svegliarono alle 5 passate, per prepararsi alla partenza: 

“Looking over money etc. till 6 40/.. – then dressed – breakfast at 8 ½ – had the imperials turned out and almost repacked them myself – busy over one thing or other that could not get out till 10 40/..” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 3 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0050]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Off from the hotel des Bergues at 12 40/.. – ran to the shop for handkerchiefs (not sent home) and stuffed them in my drawers – then let down the blinds Miss W- [Walker] shut her eyes and I got napkin out of bag and pinned to it the three handkerchiefs and put all on and wore them till we had passed the Sardinian custom house no view of the lake after getting out of sight of Geneva – fine, rich beautiful magnificent drive – on entering Amenas [Annemasse] at 1 33/.. the Sardinian Carabiniers civilly asked if I had anything à declare – non! and they let us pass on – 2 minutes farther stopt a moment (at the Douane?) and shewed our passports and were suffered to drive on immediately.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 3 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0050]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“At 1 50/.. heavy rain and thunder – the rain continued all the rest of the way to Bonneville (cleared up very soon for a short while after our arrival) and about ½ hour from the ville the thunder was so near and loud and the lightning so frequent and vivid A-‘s [Adny] lips turned pale and she was a good deal frightened –  at B- at 4 ¼ (La Poste) settled to stay all night – dinner at 5 ½ in 50 minutes – excellent roast veal – very comfortable.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 3 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0051].  Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Up and off for Bonneville at 1 ½ – violent thunder storm arrived at Bonneville 5 – Postillion cheated us about the Carabiniers.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 3 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/13]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

[2] — Nel “Manuel du voyageur en Suisse” del 1840 tra le guide della Valle di Chamonix si legge “Foliguet (David)”.

“Off from La poste Bonneville at 6 12/.. [...] at Sallenche [Sallanches] at 9 35/.. – breakfast there at the hotel de Bellevue – fine view of Mont Blanc from the balcony – arranged our things – packed my travelling bag for our mountain wanderings [...] rain very nearly all the way from S- to Chamouni [Chamonix-Mont-Blanc] at 7 5/.. Hotel de Londres – A- [Adny] wet put her to bed immediately before dinner at 8 and had the table placed at her bedside – 1 double bedded room and 1 single ditto adjoining for George.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 4 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0051]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Off to Sallanche [Sallanches] where we breakfasted – left Eugenie and carriage and off for Chamouni [Charmonix-Mont-Blanc] at 1 – bought at Servoz a herbary – stopped at Saint Gervase – where everybody but the sick dine at table d’hote [hôte] – char-à-banc detestable – thunder storm arrived at Chamouni [Charmonix-Mont-Blanc] 5 ½ – quite wet, and obliged to go to bed had no change of clothes – David Foliguet guide came.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 4 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/13]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“The auberge de Glacier à trios têtes at Contamine [Les Contamines-Montjoie] (a good little Alpine town with good church) quite a village auberge but we were very tolerably comfortable – no curtains – no dressing room – no foot pails – not more than a pint of water each – and small brown pie-dish like basins to wash in – Sat over dinner from 6 ½ to 7 ¾ , good roast veal and chicken etc. etc. – vin d’Asti blanc, 1st time of our tasting it”.  – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 6 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0052]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Crossed the Voza down to Contamine [Les Contamines-Montjoie], arrived at 5 – dined, had Vin d’Asti, went to bed.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 6 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/14]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“In about 20 minutes at our Auberge at Motets [Mottets] at 3 35/.. – a splendid chalet –  A- [Adny] and I had a small double bedded low room between cellar cowhouse and hay loft and George slept in the next room.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 7 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0052].  Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Went thro’ a pretty valley to Mottet [Motets] – a mere chalet, but a comfortable apartment between cows, and the hayloft.  woman very civil, and quick in putting up a curtain for a dressing room – some excellent mutton for dinner afterwards went out.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 6 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/14]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

La mattina dell’8 luglio, Anne Lister ed Ann Walker lasciarono il rifugio. Lungo il tragitto, si imbatterono in una valanga verificatasi sul ghiacciaio di Mottets:

“Off from Motets [Mottets] (pronounced Mot-tes) at 6 20/.. – steep ascent the track often high over the torrent or some precipices. A- [Adny] frightened, nervous and sickish – an avalanche on the glacier de Motets [Mottets] (as on the mer de glace) as we passed.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“At the top of the Col de la Seigne at 7 53/.., Mont Blanc (left) hid – the great object for passing the Col de la Seigne is that from it is the best view of Mont Blanc – we were unlucky – the view, however, was still very fine.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053].  Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Stopt an hour for A- [Adny] to eat cold fowl and veal and take the reminder of her bottle of Contamine [Les Contamines-Montjoie] vin d’Asti – she was nervous, and not well this morning – must eat and drink well and be cheered up and then, as I tell her, she will do wonders.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053].  Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“A- [Adny] walked an hour longer (too nervous and frightened to ride along the narrow track amid these rocks and precipices) till we nearly reached the bottom of the valley – very hot riding along the bottom and the flies very troublesome to our mules.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Alighted to look at the glacier – our being so near and looking from some height made the sight instructive as to the nature of glaciers in general.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Remounted our mules – passed the baths, 2 nice, white new-looking houses at a little distance (left) and alighted à l’Ange the great hotel at Courmayeur at 2 8/.. – very fine all our way – 10 minutes shower ¼ hour after our arrival – dinner at 5 ¼ in an hour Miss W- [Walker] had previously lain down and had a fresh bottle of vin d’Asti.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Arrived at Courmayeur at 4 o’clock – dinner at 5.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/15]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

La sera del loro arrivo, dopo cena, Anne ed Ann uscirono per una camminata fino alla frazione di Dolonne e - come Anne spesso faceva - andarono a dare un’occhiata all’altro albergo, l’Hôtel de l’Union, che a detta di Anne era inferiore rispetto all’Ange:

“While out this evening went to the other Inn l’Union – large good looking building – seems a good Inn, but much smaller and inferior to where we are – would take us in at the pension price of those who to stay and bathe and drink the waters i.e. 6/. a day for ourselves and 4 francs a day for George – our landlord at the Angel could not do this if we only staid one or 2 nights – tho’ his prices are the same for the bathes – he can make up 160 beds – has 3 or 4 houses taken in the little town – the hotel itself is a large and good building round a largish quadrangular court and built entirely for the accommodation of those who come on account of the waters.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053].  Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

“Hotel de L’Angel – good rooms and beds, but all the servants not yet come (the season only just commencing) [...] we had had a bottle of vin d’Asti rouge (1st time we saw the red) excellent far too superior to the bottle of white we had even here – could not spare us another bottle of the red – [the master] said he had but one left of that quality.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 9 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Excellent red vin d’Asti – but a very poor dinner – dearest spoke to maitre d’hotel, who said it was accidental, and that we should fare better another time.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 8 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/15]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“The princes (2 of the King’s sons) expected tomorrow or next day.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 9 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0053]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Lunched at Arvier, pretty little church on top of hill, triumphal arch, temporary erection to celebrate the arrival of the two Sardinian Princes (eldest about 12 years of age) at Courmayeur, where they were expected next day.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 9 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/15]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service. 

La lettera di Anne Lister ed Ann Walker alla zia Anne Lister del 22 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: "Came up with two of the Kings’ sons at Aosta." – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/791.

“Off from Arvier at 3 22/.. – 1st view of Aoste, in the distance, from the top of the hill at 4 ¾ – then lost till near arriving – A- [Adny] and I walked from 5 to 5 ¾ – at the Ecu du Valais (kept by the master of L’ange at Courmayeur) at 6 ¼.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 9 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0054]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Arrived at Aosta about 6 15. all Inn de France engaged for Princes except one room close to salle à manger – went to hotel de la poste – comfortable apartment [...]  bother about passport not able to get all done that night.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 9 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/15]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Arrived at  Saint B……… [Bernard]. Monk very civil walked out on terrace  and went to site of temple of Jupiter, picked up a small piece of Roman brick – situation of Hospice rather picturesque, but cold bleak and snow clad.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 10 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/15].  Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

La lettera di Anne Lister ed Ann Walker alla zia Anne Lister del 22 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: "At the village des Ferret. there were two rooms, for us, guides, George, and the poor widow with eight children, we thought at first that George must sleep at the foot of our bed, but a bed was at last contrived for him in the room with the family, and the guides – in our little apartment which was so low, that we would touch the ceiling with our hands when we were in bed, we had two sickly children that cried a great part of the night, the people were very civil and attentive and we were really very tolerably comfortable, and I assure you these little adventures not only seemed us to laugh at, at the time, but they made us feel the comfort and value afterwards, of a good hotel." – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/791.

“After descent, went along valley thro’ Pres [Pré De Bar] to Courmayeur, saw baths there  arrived about 4 o’clock.” Dal diario di Ann Walker, 12 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/16]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

Alle dieci del mattino di domenica 14 luglio 1834 partirono per Bourg-Saint-Maurice. Da questo dominio sardo - ora un comune francese - Anne Lister ed Ann Walker optarono per lo stesso percorso dell'andata e quindi, muovendosi tra tra Italia, Svizzera e Francia, oltrepassarono il Col du Bonhomme e Les Contamines-Montjoie,  fino a  Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, dove alloggiarono di nuovo all'Hotel de Londres.

“Snow on Col du Bonhomme considerably less than when we passed just 8 days before – saw nearly 100 peasants who had been ordered out by King to mend the roads – threw a stone on monument to 3 English ladies who were lost at foot Col du Bonhomme – dearest had long conversation with two peasants – told them they were in grande toilette, and one very pretty, praised them for not being married – said they lived with their parents and were mantua makers – remarked the superior make of dearest Pelisse and my habit.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 14 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/16]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Arrived at Chamouni [Chamonix-Mont-Blanc] about 6 o’clock – had the opposite room to one we occupied before, which is much nicer, more commodious, and has a very good view of Mont Blanc – dined and went to bed.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 15 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/17]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Rain all last night and this morning – an end of ascending Mont Blanc.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 21 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0061]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

La lettera di Anne Lister alla zia Anne Lister del 1 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: "She [Ann] is sure she can ride 30 miles a day over any roads; and, if there was any chance of riding to the top of Mont Blanc, there she would go." – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/787.

La lettera di Anne Lister ed Ann Walker alla zia Anne Lister del 22 luglio 1834 in cui si legge: "These seventeen days upon muleback, making what is  called the Grand Tour of Mont Blanc, have quite cured us both – we have really done Great things – people would hardly believe us if we told them." – West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/791.

“Shewed my passport to the Sardinian carabineers who immediately and very civilly let us pass – at 2 42/.. at Frabe said the postilion and at Feigère [Feigères] according to 1 of the Douaniers and the map – the douaniers very civil  –  said they were obliged to examine something, but would not look into the carriage and only just peeped into one of the imperials while we changed horses, and we were off in 12 minutes.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 26 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0063]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“At the hotel de Genève à Annecy at 7 – walked ¼ hour along the handsome poplar and Platanus shaded avenue along the shallow reedy top of the lake finely surrounded by mountains – dinner at 7 50/.. to 8 ½ in the public salle manger but nobody there at 1st and only 2 gentlemen at last – man and girl (harp and she singing) came to us at dinner – sat writing in A-‘s [Adny] room while she got into bed and fell asleep at 9 ¾.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 26 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0063]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“The scenery from Geneva to Annecy presents an amphitheatre of mountains.  and is beautiful and picturesque in the extreme – this road is seldom travelled the other to Aix being about 2 miles shorter – at Hotel de Genève at Annecy at 7 – walked 15 minutes along the Promenade shaded by poplars and on each side – dinner and went to bed – 2 rooms – dearest came and wrote journal in mine till I was asleep.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 26 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/18 & WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/19]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“La Parfait Union, in a quiet little square en face de la cathedral Chambery.”  – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 27 luglio1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0064]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Saw little of road to Chambery, as it was quite dark most of the way, and ten o’clock when we arrived at Hotel, Parfaite Union apartment – lofty good size and very comfortable beds – 11. when we sat down to supper.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 27 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/19]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Then to Lake Bourget which we crossed in a boat with a French lady and gentleman and their little girl from Lyons, to the Monastery of Hautecombe, where the Sardinia Kings, till the last 5 generations were buried – all the tombs are of Seyssel stone which is quite white, but the whiteness has more the hue of plaster of Paris than of marble – there are four large paintings, one of Xst [Christ] in the Temple and the Magi very good, and two others, one of Xst [Christ] healing the young men at the pool of Bethesda and saw a small brick chapel near, and the sculptor’s studio – as well as the apartments for the King and Queen.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 29 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/20].

 Ritratto di Carlo Felice di Savoia di Francesco Marabotti (1851). Carlo di Savoia (1765-1831) è stato duca di Savoia, Piemonte e Aosta, re di Sardegna.

“Walked to Charmette (by the way eat greengages) formerly the residence of Madame de Varens [Warens], and Rousseau, a bed chair is the only remnant of Rousseau’s furniture, a portrait of him in one of the rooms, a beautiful view of the town of Chambery and the country from Madame de Varens’ [Warens] apartment very small garden – returned by Terrace on which Rousseau used to walk – he was of very low origin, said to be the son of a watchmaker at Geneva, and came to Charmette, to be Madame de Varens [Warens] servant – lovely view in descending to the town.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 28 luglio 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/19].

“Chambéry, ville agréablement située sur les deux petites rivières de L’Albano [Albanne] et de la Laisse [Leysse]; elle offre des aspects aussi variés que ses environs des tableaux pittoresques.” – Dalle Miscellanee di Anne Lister (Miscellaneous notes made by Anne Lister), 30 luglio 1834, trascrizione, SH:7/ML/MISC/2/2. West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale.

“Alighted at our Inn at Echelles [Les Échelles] at 6 20/.. [...] (2 agosto 1834) very well satisfied till the bill came – and then I said the being charged 8/. a night for our double bedded room and the 2 servants rooms was ridicule.” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 1 e 2 agosto 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0067]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Reached it at 1 – no ladies allowed to enter the monastery (Cistertian [Cistercian] – habit of white cloth – confined by white cord or leather belt – a serge shirt – no linen allowed).” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 1 agosto 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0067]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Up at 6 – and engaged a char, to take us at 9 o’clock to Pont Saint Laurent, at time could not get passport so had to wait for it till man returned, this delayed us till 9 ½ – then off – Douane on entering France, turned out our char and wished to search our persons till dearest shewed our passport [...] ride to Grand Chartreuse particularly fine. high mountains, and ravine and gorge finest I ever saw.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 1 agosto 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/21]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“At 10 10/.. stop 4 minutes to verifier passport by the Carabiniérs on the confines of Sardinia – at 10 22/.. shew passport at the Douanes Royales de France and off again in one minute!” – Dal diario di Anne Lister, 3 agosto 1834, trascrizione, [SH:7/ML/E/17/0068]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.

“Country beautiful, particularly all the valley down to Bourg Maurice, examination of Boot of carriage by Douane, on entering France, at ... – rain came on  about 2 o’clock.” – Dal diario di Ann Walker, 3 agosto 1834, trascrizione, [WYC:1525/7/1/5/1/22]. Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Archive Service.